This page outlines several steps involved in the transplanting of tomato plant seedlings into larger containers for further growth and development. Following these steps will allow for a healthy and robust root system to continue growing on for a time until weather conditions will permit the plants to be set out in the vegetable garden rows permanently.

1.) Carefully remove the seedling from the flat with as much root ball intact as possible. I use an old butter knife from a set of recycled silverware to edge around the root ball before I gently lift the seedling out of the flat.

2.)  Place the seedling into a 3 in. x 3 in. or 4 in. x 4 in. clean and sterile plastic pot. Wash all plastic pots in a ten percent solution of household bleach before using. The bleach will destroy pathogens which may be harmful to the tender seedling. One part bleach, to nine parts water. Place the tomato seedling in the bottom of the pot as shown. The bottom of the pot should have about an inch of soilless mix at the bottom in order to recieve the seedling. I use a product called "Pro-Mix" which contains peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. I purchased the "Pro-Mix" at the local Agway. Plant the tomato seedling much deeper than it was growing in the flat. Tomatoes are adventitious plants and new roots will form along the buried stem. Caution, not all vegetable plants are adventitious.

3.) Continue to carefully backfill around the seedling with soilless mix until the seedling is centered within the pot. Water the seedling in thoroughly and make sure the soilless mix becomes saturated. I keep a tray or a plastic bottom underneath the pots with some water until the soil media has had a chance to saturate, like how a sponge soaks up water. Once the soil media becomes saturated remove the tray and allow the plastic pots to drain freely. It takes a little while for the soilless mix to become saturated. You will know when the soil media becomes saturated because it will change color from light brown to dark brown.

4.) During the transplanting procedure make sure you lable your plants. Labeling provides a handy reference when folks ask what kind of tomato they are eating or you can keep a record about how certain varieties and cultivars perform under your growing conditions. The inconspicuous plastic lables can be moved into the permanent vegetable garden location with the tomato plants as well. Plastic lables are reusable, inexpensive, and always should be marked with a number two pencil. Most tomato seedlings look very much alike and if you lose track of the varieties or cultivars you have planted it will affect your garden design and you may end up with some plants shading out the others because of differences in height or plant growth habits.

After the seedlings have recovered from transplant shock in a few days and if the weather is warm move the plants outside or into a coldframe in order that they may continue to grow and develop in a warm, protected location. Tomatoes are warm weather plants and they will appreciate it if you can simulate those conditions while in the nursery stage.